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South of Madurai, India comes to an end in the raging surf of Kanyakumari, on the tip of Cape Comorin, where the Bay of Bengal meets the Indian Ocean. A place of pilgrimage: on a pile of sea-sprayed rocks offshore, the 19th-century Hindu reformer, Swami Vivekananda, meditated before setting off on his crusade to restore intellectualism and social responsibility to India's major religion.
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