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                                The old walled quarter in central Jaipur, is filled with endless rows of market stalls. Sankhala Handicrafts (opposite Hawa Mahal; 91-141-261-0597), for opulent embroidered silks and saris. Across the street, Best Jaipurnagra Shoe Stores (56, Johari Bazaar; 91-9-8284-5688) makes leather shoes and slip-ons by hand.  Everything in India is a negotiation, so be ready to play hardball.
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